January 15, 2025

This March, Dip Your Toe into Suiting with Tailored Waistcoats


March is always a strange month for planning our boxes. We announce them in January, when it is cold and dreary, for a month that can either be a lion or a lamb. How do you dress for such conditions? And how do you get excited for such a mercurial month?

This March, we've decided to take a bit of a risk with a very on-trend fashion we think could be ideal for the times. Waistcoats (or vests) have been popping up in the sewing world, but we think it's time they had their moment. 

They're a classic fashion, menswear inspired, and wonderful for either layering or not. We admit that they are a distinct "look" but if you haven't considered them, we think they may bring a bit of whimsy and class to your handmade wardrobe. 

And because we're using these boxes as a entry into Spring, it only seemed appropriate to use some colors of renewal. No, not pastels, but bright spring greens, earthy browns, and some textures that are subtle and traditional. Personally, we love this month's mood, and it's getting us ready for a new season!

So, without further ado, let's dig in!


Sew Essential Box: Pika Vest from Wardrobe By Me

With simple lines and a clean look, the Pika Vest is a classic waistcoat that you can wear over a shirt or as a sleeveless top. Fully lined, it features princess seams, welt pockets and a pointed hem for an extra bit of flare. What we love about it is its subtely. It doesn't scream menswear or costume, but adds a bit of elan to any outfit. It's a wardrobe maker when you just want a little bit extra.

For fabrics, we danced between two minds: classic suiting and summer top. We feel we're offering the best of both worlds with these three fantastic fabrics. Here they are!

  • Pear Green Aero-washed Linen - Thin and medium weight, this linen has been finished with a special high pressure air that stabilizes the fabric and gives it a smooth, soft hand. With a supple drape and slight sheen, it will give this vest a suiting look, while still retaining all the breathability and durability that makes us love linen. Plus the color! Spring in bloom, this green is bright and fresh. A sophisticated yet relaxed choice for your wardrobe!
  • Brushed Gray Tartan Suiting - This tartan twill suiting looks like heavy wool coating, but feels like super 120s suiting. Viscose and cotton add a supple drape and thin hand, while the brushed surface gives a flannel quality. Blue, gray, and gold lines create a gorgeous pattern for a menswear look that is also utterly feminine.
  • Cinnamon Essex Linen - A mix of 55% linen and 45% cotton, this medium weight fabric has a full-body drape that this waistcoat. The beauty of linen is that the more you wash it, the softer it becomes. Plus, it's eminently breathable and durable. With a rich, sepia brown hue, homespun with darker warp threads for a rustic look, this fabric is unique and beautiful and a great addition to your tailored wardrobe.
SHOP THE SEW ESSENTIAL BOX >>

Sew Select Box: Freya Vest from Just Patterns

A brand new pattern, the Freya vest came out last last year and pushed us over the edge to do this month's theme. A longer vest, hitting below the hip like a tunic, this vest harkens back to Victorian jackets and riding outfits. Yet it is totally modern with large buttons, an option for patch or welt pockets, and slightly cut in shoulders. Style it with pants, skirts, or (as above) tailored shorts for a truly unexpected outfit.

Fabric-wise, we kept it simple with cotton and wools, two common suiting fabrics. But the colors and patterns keep it from being too predictable. Let's take a look! 

  • Espresso Cotton Flannel Twill - The first thing you'll love about this fabric is the color, a soft coffee brown, almost hazy from the yarn-dyed weave. The next, the incredibly soft hand which is a result from the brushed surface and the twill weave of fabric. Medium weight and and surprising thin for a flannel, this vest will feel like your favorite blanket transformed into a tailored waistcoat.
  • Pesto Cotton Twill - Bright and fresh, like the first spring shoots after a long winter, the color is just one thing to love about this fabric. With a silky, dry hand and a heavier weight, this fabric is supple and wearable, like your favorite pair of khakis that you wore until holes appeared. Matte and marvelous, this fabric is destined for your tailored vest!
  • Black Pinstripe Virgin Wool Suiting - If you're looking for a classic suiting look, it's hard to go wrong with a virgin wool pinstripe. Black wool suiting is thread with an ivory stripe, roughly one inch apart, for a subtle but notable statement. The fabric itself is soft and thin, like any good suiting, and will press beautifully. Get zoot-suit ready with this fantastic fabric!
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Sew Indulgent Box: Miller Vest and Quinn Pants from Merchant & Mills

As we sometimes do with our luxury box, this month we're offering a complete outfit! In addition to the Miller Vest, we are also including the pattern for the Quinn Pants (and enough fabric for both) so you can sew a complete tailored outfit. Both patterns are not exactly suiting styles, but paired together create a relaxed menswear inspired look that we absolutely love. Plus, you can mix and match to your heart's content!

To create the complete look, we needed fabrics that worked for both the vest and trousers, and we think we've found some great ones. Flannels, twills, and a lovely hemp blend will work incredibly well for your own tailored outfit! 

  • Pepper Dot Cotton Flannel - Meet our favorite medium weight flannel! The flannel in question mimics the look of wool tweed, but has the softness and durability of a brushed cotton. This fabric is yarn-dyed with black and white threads that add amazing depth to the weave that looks like a jacquard dot. With a tailored drape, it holds its shape well and presses just as nicely. Perfect for this waistcoat and trousers!
  • Cacao Brown Cotton Hemp Slub - Like linen, hemp is a long durable fiber that creates a breathable and tailored fabric. In this case, it also adds a lovely slub quality to add some texture. In a deep, coffee bean brown, this fabric looks like suiting but feels like your favorite cotton/linen. A perfect all-around fabric for a tailored wardrobe!
  • Pea Green Sanded Cotton Twill - Green and dreamy, the color is just one thing to love about this fabric. With a sanded, dry hand and a heavy weight, the fabric is supple yet sturdy, crisp and tailored. Lightly brushed for softness, this is about as classic as you can get for a twill!
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If waistcoats aren't your thing, we're here for you. Our Tried and True boxes are the opposite of tailored menswear. We're reviving our T-shirts and Ice-Dye boxes, in which you get a t-shirt pattern as well as a complete ice-dye kit. Pairing ice-dying with egg dying for Easter sounds like a great Spring pastime to us! 

Until next time. . .

Happy sewing!

-Mary

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